| Living in Nepal
What’s it like living in Nepal?
This is a very difficult question to answer, because experiences
vary dramatically amongst individuals. In an effort to simplify
things, let’s narrow the focus to “What’s it
like for an expatriate family living in Kathmandu?” Perhaps
it’s safe to say that the experience depends upon many factors:
for example, sense of humor, expectations, mental and physical
state of health, family dynamics, economic factors, etc. Generally
speaking, however, the majority of families enjoy their stays
here tremendously, and misses Nepal just as strongly when they
move on.
Can my family be happy living in Kathmandu?
Yes, you really can! Kathmandu offers (almost) everything the
expatriate could desire….fine dining, excellent holiday
destinations, western groceries, good schools for children, good
housing with all mod cons, affordable domestic help, and lots
of other things. Check out some of our links for maps, details,
and directories below.
What’s Kathmandu like?
Kathmandu is situated in a large valley surrounded by the Mahabarrat
mountains. It is actually 3 cities, Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur.
As the population steadily increases, it is not as easy to see
where one city ends, and another starts (especially between Patan
and Kathmandu, which are separated only by a river and bridge!)
The Kathmandu Valley is a truly magical place. Of course, it is
facing all sorts of growing pains, as developing cities do, such
as air, water, and noise pollution, traffic congestion, and crowding,
but there are so many plus points. For example, even if you don’t
see the snowy white-capped Himmalayas every day, you still see
beautiful 2000m t mountains from any given direction. In addition,
ancient art and architecture can be found just about everywhere,
and temples and shrines are part of the visual fabric of any walk
or drive around the city. It’s a classic, yet unique example
of modernization juxtaposed with age old traditions….. picture
a five hundred year old handcrafted temple bustling with worshippers
carrying offerings of flowers, fruit and incense, taking tikkas
and ringing sacred bells, at a chowk (roundabout) reverberating
with the rumblings, thuds, beeps, and clangs of at least 5 different
types of transportation (motorcycle, car, bicycle, truck, tempo)
vying for space to travel.
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What can I do for fun with my family?
Kathmandu is a living kaleidoscope of colors, textures, smells,
sights, and sounds, with a new discovery at every corner. One
such discovery that expat parents revel in is the fact that children
are adored by Nepalese people, and going on a family outing (whether
eating in a restaurant or going on an overnight trip) can take
on a whole new meaning when your waiter/waitress, or hotel owner/manager
is actually thrilled to take your toddler by the hand and show
them the pussycat in the garden, or the hotel fountain.
Other family perks
That’s not enough? O.K. Here’s the real humdinger.
Imagine waking up in the morning and having breakfast waiting
for you and your family, lovingly prepared by your cook. If your
home has a fairly large compound, your meals are probably made
with fresh vegetables from your kitchen garden (tended by you
or your gardener). After you’ve had breakfast, you set off
for work knowing that your children are either well cared for
at home by a didi or spouse, or safe and sound at Lincoln School
(and by now you are aware of the myriad benefits) all day. When
you arrive home, you will have time to spend with your family
and enjoy a home-cooked meal. Or perhaps you will eat out tonight…..
What is the cost of living like?
If you’re living on a western salary, it’s incredibly
cheap. Housing can vary tremendously, from $200-$1,000 per month,
depending on location, size of home, and facilities available.
Domestic help ranges from about $50-$100 per month. Most expats
opt to have a cook, and at least one general helper (cleaning,
laundry, babysitting). Families with small children often hire
a nanny (didi) specifically for child care.
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Domestic Staff or "Servants"
Those who have not previously lived in a developing country often
feel uncomfortable with the idea of employing servants. However,
the reality of Nepal is that there are none of the labor saving
machines of a western home. You are also providing employment
for people who would otherwise have no source of income.
A relationship with a household employee is a personal one; you
will need time to establish it. There are many good people available,
but it is wise to question past employers if possible. Wages are
varied. Expats often have a cook/house-person for about $70-90
per month. Many houses have reasonable yards and a good mali (gardener)
can be hired for $45-$65 per month. Sometimes a house servant
will do the laundry; often a dhobi (washing-man) will pick up
your laundry twice a week for $10-$20 per month. Generally, there
is not a fear of violent crime among foreigners in Kathmandu,
but as a precaution most people hire a chowkidhar (watchman) for
approximately $35-$55 per month as burglaries are possible. A
combination mali/chowkidar is useful (about $45-$60 per month),
and a "didi" can do housework, washing and child care
for $50-65 per month. There are many possible combinations of
household help which you can secure upon arrival.
Eating out
Eating out can cost anywhere from $1 for a plate of momos to $50
for high class dining with drinks. Kathmandu has a wide variety
of restaurants with reputations for cleanliness and safety. These
conditions do change, so you will want to rely on recommendations
from people who are here when you arrive.
Shopping
Most of the products you will need are available in the local
market. There are several large supermarkets where most goods
can be found. A wide variety of drugs and medicines are available
and the pharmacists are generally fluent in English. Again, more
information will be available when you arrive.
Medicine
Again, many prescription and non-prescription medicines are available
here over the counter. Be sure, though, to bring a year’s
supply of more specialized medications.
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Fun and Games
Video tapes and DVDs are available in Kathmandu and most people
appreciate having a VCR/DVD player. If this is a source of entertainment
in your life, bring tapes/DVDs to trade and share. Because of
the wide variety of systems available, a multi-system would maximize
your viewing. An NTSC system (what we have in the States) will
allow you to easily trade videos with other families, whereas
a PAL system will allow you to rent a broad range of tapes in
the market. A multisystem machine will play both. To help you
decide, a multisystem TV, 21", color will range in cost from
$450 to $600 for a SONY. A VCR, play only, will cost about $200
and up.
There are several good bookstores in Kathmandu, but you should
bring your own board games, tennis rackets and balls (available
but expensive), musical instruments, and other materials for hobbies.
Film is available locally. The processing of color print and
slide is available, and is good and inexpensive.
The decision as to what to bring or not to bring rests more on
how much weight you have available in your air freight, as most
things are available, although sometimes at a higher cost.
What to see in and around Kathmandu
Kathmandu Durbar Square: This is a large square
in front of the old royal palace of Kathmandu. There are many
pagoda-style temples around the palace square. There are also
important historical landmarks in the vicinity. One of the historical
monuments is the Kasthamandap after which Kathmandu was named.
Close to the Durbar square is the house of the living Goddess
(Kumari) located in a courtyard guarded by stone lions.
Patan and Bhaktapur: These cities also have
similar durbar squares but with different layouts. Both Patan
and Bhaktapur Durbar squares have museums with valuable pieces
of art from different periods in their history. The stone temple
of Krishna at the Patan Durbar Square is regarded as unique and
worth visiting.
Swayambhunath: The Buddhist Temple of Swayambhunath,
situated on the top of a hill west of the city, is one of the
most popular and instantly recognizable symbols of Nepal. It is
also referred to as “Monkey Temple” because of the
large number of monkeys which guard the hill and the surrounding
forest. A long stairway leads to the stupa at the top of the hill
from where the whole valley can be seen with all its landmarks.
Bodhnath: This is the other great stupa of the
Valley and the largest in Nepal. With its three all-seeing eyes
the stupa sits on flat land as a crown above pastel-painted facades
of shops and houses. All around the stupa are shops and houses
where people of Tibetan origin live and sell their wares. It is
a bustling town that looks like little Tibet.
Pashupatinath: This is regarded as the holiest
shrine of the Hindus and is situated on the bank of the Bagmati
River. On the bank of the river is also the cremation site. Thousands
of Hindus make pilgrimages to this temple every year.
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Transport and Communication
Due to population growth and urbanization during the past few
years, Kathmandu’s streets have become quite congested.
Movement within the city can sometimes be time-consuming. Traffic
jams have become more and more common because of an increasing
number of vehicles being imported into the country. The government
recently banned the use of three-wheel auto-rickshaws because
of dangerous levels of air pollution. However, metered taxis are
easy to find. Even though normally the fare is what is shown on
the meter, the taxi drivers ask for more in the evening, particularly
if it is late. Public transport is difficult because the buses
are usually very crowded and stop operating in the early evening.
Where to Shop
Kathmandu is a shopper’s paradise whether you are looking
for an inexpensive souvenir or a real work of art. Although you
can find almost anything in the tourist areas of Kathmandu, there
are specific specialties in different parts of the Valley. While
shopping you should remember that there is a lot of bargaining
especially in tourist areas. The major hotels, too, have shopping
arcades where a variety of handicrafts are available. The following
places are recommended:
Thamel
This is the area where most of the budget tourists visiting Nepal
stay and shop. There are numerous little shops selling handicrafts,
clothes, carpets and even trekking gear. The prices are more reasonable
than in the hotels and larger shops.
Babar Mahal Revisited
This is a new shopping complex with many stores and restaurants.
Located in a lovely restored Rana palace, these shops contain
all kinds of handicrafts from Nepal and India, jewelry, hand-made
paper and Cashmere shawls and scarves.
Bead Bazaar
The Bead Bazaar is located in the heart of Kathmandu. While the
bead bazaar is well-known for a variety of beads and beaded handicrafts,
there are also other shops in the neighborhood where other Nepalese
products can be bought.
Tibetan Refugee Camp
Originally established for Tibetan refugees, this area has many
small shops selling Tibetan carpets, old and new. You can also
see the carpet weavers at work. Master Weaver has excellent choices
of classic handmade Tibetan carpets.
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